Contributed by:
Martin Brunner STOC# 637 PanEuro# 42
martin.brunner@webcity.at
Vienna, AuSTria, Europe
Do as follows:
remove: saddlebags, seat, side covers, belly pan, the grey side fairings
(the ones with the pockets), lower fairings including the tip wing covers,
pull the speedo cable from wheel-drive (Philips bolt) and remove the
U-shaped fairing below headlight & around radiator inlet.
Drain radiator at it's plug (goes faster whith cap off), remove the horn,
remove the hose clamps from rad/hoses and remove the 2 M6 bolts
holding the radiator on it's top (getting it then out is a bit of fiddling:
it's bottom is sited with a dot into a rubber in the frame).
Then remove the 2 silver covers in front of the valve covers (2 hex bolts
each), while at it remove the spark plugs as well, then the two upper
T-belt housing covers up on the heads.
You now face the larger middle cover, this one get's a bit tricky since
it's somehow fixed with the clutch-cover (doing it A-grade would require
to remove/open the clutch cover as well :-|) I managed to pull it out
without loosening the clutch cover by now and modified that big
plastic cover in a way it get's now in and out easily, it normaly stucks
on the crank-pulley fixing bolt, a stainley-knive, patiance and some
silicone grease (so the seals slip in/out easier) solved that.
Whatever, the T-belt is now fully accessable:
step 1: note that the crank-pulley and the 2 cam-pulleys are marked:
the c/pulleys have lines (not the dots, the_lines_are your indication!),
the crank-pulley a mark for #1 TDC (top dead center), ALL 3 of them
pulley marks have little opposites on the housing, little arrows !!
Take a 17mm ratchet and turn the crank pulley (in the engine's normal
direction please!) till ALL 3 are matching their housing marks, check
on this_very_carefully, check again to be_realy_sure!
Don't move_any_of them pulleys during the following work stages now!
Next it to remove the "guide-disc" from the LHS cam-pulley (12mm nut)
Again: don't move them pulleys from the marks!
Identify the spanner pulley, it's located almost RHS (=riding direction)
and has a base with a spring, loose it's center-bolt and push it
downwards to clear the T-belt from tention, fix it there again (better
you replace it together with the T-belt, but that's just MHO).
You're now ready to carefully pull that T-belt out, some fiddling will
be needed around the crank-pulley, but it's ok.
Tip: wash your hands_before_opening the packing of the new
T-belt, we don't want to get any oil onto it, don't we?
Now install the new T-belt: 1) get it onto the crank-pulley, 2) over the
LHS cam-pulley, 3) over the middle guide roll, 4) over the RHS cam-pulley
(check now_carefully_if both cam-pulleys are still matching the marks
easy to get it wrong by 1 sproket there!), 5) over the spanner pulley.
Sure the T-belt is correctly aligned, sure that_all_the marks are still
aligned????? If you swear "yes" you then loose the fixing bolt of
the spanner pulley and let it snap onto the T-belt, the spring gives it
enough tention so you only need to torque the fixing bolt with 40NM.
Next is the guide disc on LHS cam-pulley, bolt requires 27NM
Well, from now I'll leave you on your own <g> ;->
Put the rest together in reverse order, when ready and fully nervous
if it will start, leave the "kill" switch in OFF position for 2 starter
cranks,
just in case