Theory, problems and benefits.
The turbulence forming over the top of the screen was affected riding comfort even with a tall screen ...especially for my passenger. The fairing and screen design appears to pile up lots of air at the front of the radiator without an easy route out. So the excess air takes the easy escape through the space round the fork legs, up in front of the gauges ...and it's ready for a battle! The cure was achieved by fitting the S.T.E.F.i. plate. It sooths and smooths the overhead oscillations by reducing the air whistling through the gaps from below. Intercom chat is improved at speed and the bike seems to behave better in rough air and crosswinds. I don't have access to a wind tunnel so this is my best guess at the moment.
Not many problems! Reports from ABS users specify changes to clear the extra brake pipes and to make extra clearance for the fork shields that form part of the mudguard [fender]. Further research into a suitable ABS template is continuing. Preserve safe clearances. [See 'Making it', below.] The standard plate doesn't appear to mess with the airflow via any other fairing slots and may actually enhance radiator efficiency. Rain and dirt are deflected away from the bottom yoke and the lower steering bearing. Fitting and removal only takes moments and it lives well out of sight. It cost me almost nothing! ..Oh yes ..and it works really well, that's the other good thing!
History and other testing stuff.
Pictures of the new Gold Wing show an air dam under the headlight. It set me thinking that an ugly thing like that must have real function. It gave me ideas and I made some 'L' shaped alloy test strips to stick on our bike. They got in the way of the flow in front of the radiator and obviously took energy out of the buffet zone but there was still a lot of air banging about. Finally, the S.T.E.F.i. plate evolved out of a single flat alloy sheet. The size was determined by what I could find in the shed. It just seemed an obvious way to do the intended job. Our testing was done with the 'letterbox' slot shut off with a roll of pipe insulation and with a Secdem screen. The 'cats eyes' remained open.
More notes.
It doesn't take long to make with just a few parts and handyman tools, but don't rush and make mistakes. View the pictures and you will see the S.T.E.F.i. plate fixed right under the front of the headlamp with two pre-existing bodywork screws. [I used longer 8mmx20mm.] You will find that the plate will almost conceal most of the bottom yoke and the lower steering bearing when viewed from the front. The original was 2mm [1/16"] aluminium alloy, but use what you like ..and make it flat for simplicity. I couldn't be bothered to research a curved shape. I also tried to keep plenty of 'meat' around the two front mounting holes for strength. You will need a layer of insulating or draught exclusion foam to protect the paint finish and to spread the load. I made mine a sloppy fit at the sides with about 5mm [3/16inch] gap to the inner fairing. When fitted with just the front two screws, the S.T.E.F.i. plate is quite stable due to the large contact area under the headlamp but you may want to add small brackets described below.
At last ..the making it bit.......
First.. Re-size and re-print the S.T.E.F.i. plate picture until the two main mounting holes are 205mm [8and1/16"] between centres. Use it to scissor your own stiff card template to try for size on your bike. It will save you lots of time to get your clearances and brackets sorted out right now, before you get too serious. Screw it on to see how it lines up and add/remove stuff until you are completely happy with the fit.
Next .. I felt I had to add two supports from the sides. [Just to see how much/little work was needed.] I retained the original inner fairing side screws. The 'L' brackets had to be slightly shaped to line up properly [see sketch pictures] and two new 8mmx100mm bolts with locknuts were used to fix the support to the plate. Another option is to use the screws points that hold the access plate under and behind the headlamp, but I have no bracket details for that. The single lug for the fairing on the headstock is not easy to use because of a wedge shaped screw and a welded nut.
Last .. Make and fit the 'proper' one..........
What next? ....Oh yes, go out and ride a new experience ..show all your friends!
I hope this Farkle works as well for you as it has for us and that you get greater riding pleasure because of it. Many thanks to all the riders and pillions everywhere for your interest and help. Any acknowledgements [or constructive criticisms] are always appreciated!
Safety First.
I'm not responsible for this new Farkle causing you any grief whatsoever! If you make and fit one, please check carefully that your work is safe and won't break, jam or fall off. I made the original ifor my standard bike, with big gaps between the forks, dust shrouds, brake line and the mudguard, [fender] but it may not fully suit your bike without you making some changes. If you have a higher specification [ABS] bike this plate will not fit without major alteration. It's all up to
you.
Roger Heap |
