Date: Fri, 6 May 1994 23:51:26 -0500
From: Derek C Catt <r10dcc1@corn.cso.niu.edu>
Subject: STuff #6 -- The Season Begins
Status: OR

May '94

STuff #6 -- The ST Season Begins!

This will be the last STuff until I get back from my 6 week
travels -- mid June. Anyone looking for immediate ST info/advice
can probably ask anybody on the mailing list, but I will endorse
Jim Alexander (below) and George Catt <gac@intgp1.att.com>. They
both tend to answer their e-mail quickly. Feel free to send any
info to my e-mail address, it'll be held until I return.

Last weekend, while in Texas, my left brake caliper lost the large
allen bolt. Very clunky. Luckily it happened right before I
arrived at the first rally site -- had access to parts and a drill
press. The temp fix is still holding and the replacement bolt is
on the way. Turned over 51k miles on the way back -- nothing
"spiritual" happened at 50k miles, DARN!

I know a few of the N. Illinois STuff readers will be at the
TwiSTAR HSTA Rally in Wisconsin later this month -- see you there.
If any of you go to the Honda Hoot (June, N. Carolina), look me
up. Until then. . . .

Go Ride!

Derek
"Second Generation 'Cyclists -- we're born to ride!" (TM)

Traditional Cheesy Table of Contents:
RKA Tank Bags and the ST (or "Where's my endorsement check?")
Tire News
ST & Four Corners
Motorcycle Consumer News Letter
Throttle Locks & The ST
Suspension Improvements
Bearings In Your Head (Guide to replacing. . . )

><><><><><><><><><><RKA Bags and the ST
From: Jim Alexander <jalexand@netcom.com>
Subject: Tank Bags: My .02 worth

Tank bag comments:
I have had a RKA tank bag on my ST for 71,000 miles. I have had a
radio in it all the time and have had no problem with it being in
the way or being too big. It has not scratched the bonnet (or
fake tank). The are built to last and function very well. It
works great because of the true three point mounting system. Two
of the mounts go under the bonnet and around the frame on each
side of the engine (it does take a little effort and maybe a bent
coat hanger to install the straps). The rear strap attaches to
the post which the seat slides into. I know have a bag which has
a stereo cassette / radio and Cycle-Comm CB/Intercomm unit. It
works great and because of the quick release buckles on the bag, I
can remove or install it in about 30 seconds or less. I have been
extreme rain and the contents stayed dry for the most part, and I
had not scotch guarded it in over a year when I was in the down
pour (in Ohio, June 93).

You can get a free brochure from Rich and Kathy at 707/579-5045.
I have no affiliation, other than friendship with them. They will
also color match it to the bike.

Jim Alexander jalexand@netcom.com

{I'm expecting my cut of Jim's cut of any tank bags sold. Actually,
over the weekend I got to look at several RKA bags on the ST. The
looked good. My previous comments were a TAD uneducated. The RKA
bags have easily removable side pouches. Jim says he doesn't run these
pouches unless he is "touring" and then they don't really get in the
way. -- Derek}

><><><><><><><><><><><><>TIRE NEWS

From: Jim Alexander <jalexand@netcom.com>
Forwarded from CompuServe
Sb: ST1100 MEZ2
Fm: John Fraser 73363,2731
To: motorsports

Don't hold your breath if you have ordered the new Metzler MEZ2
for your ST1100. I spoke with Metzler today and was (very
reluctantly) told that this tire in the 160-70-17 size won't
become available until July. It has apparently been held up for
some reason that Metzler was hesitant to reveal.

On a more positive, for those of you who would like another
heavily discounted tire option for this bike, Competition
Accessories (now a Honda dealer) can get the OEM Dunlops (still
apparently the mileage champs for this bike) for $102.88 rear,
$72.88 front. PS This Dunlop tire is only available from Honda
dealers in the rear wheel size. Dunlop doesn't show it in their
catalog.

Avon News: From Derek and Jim Alexander

Someone needs to tell John (above) that Avon Radials get better
mileage than the OEM Dunlops (handle better, better in the rain. .
. .) BUT! Seems my dealer had a problem getting me a new rear
Avon Radial. "Its not in production anymore." After assuring him
it was still in production (I called Avon to make sure) they found
one at a different warehouse. Jim has had a similar problem.
Seems the clerks at the distributor don't have the new product
sheets. So the parts guy thought it was out of production too.
Jim contacted the warehouse manager who shipped a tire to the
dealer -- the same warehouse the dealer had contacted.

If you are looking for the Avon radial and have trouble, you can
contact the US Avon distributor 800-624-7470 for help. If your
parts guy says the distributor says its not available tell them to
look for a new product sheet someplace.

Michelin 89 series radial:
Word is in, and its not good. These tires are VERY VERY sticky.
But don't have a decent life. They handle well on the ST (and
other sport bikes) but the rear tire squares up quickly and wears
out too fast. However, these are probably the stickiest tires
available for the ST.

><><><><><><><>ST & Four Corners
From: "Tom Cardinali" <tcardinali@VNET.IBM.COM>

My main ride is a '91 black ST1100. I also own an '83 V45
Interceptor, an '83 XR350R and two (hopefully soon to be 3) '75
CB400F SuperSports.

Last September I had the vacation of my life. I rode the ST from
Vermont to the USGP in Monterey, CA. I took four weeks and road
west along a northern route, slipping into Canada in Alberta at
Waterton Lakes National Park (adjacent to Glacier National Park in
Montana). I met up with a friend in Oregon that I know from
and rode the Pacific Coast Highway from central Oregon all the way
to San Diego. Then I dipped into Mexico in Tecate (just east of
Tijuana) and back east along a southern route.

28 days, Three Flags, 10,399mi and twenty national parks/monuments
later I was back in Vermont. What a ride! And the *only*
mechanical problem was blowing a fuse on my radar detector in
Santa Monica!

TomC / STRider

{For those of you that haven't traveled much on their STs yet, I will
testify in support of Tom's observations. 9k miles/4 weeks last
summer. No problems. Well, if you ignore running out of rubber in
Utah. . . Derek}

><><><><><><><><>Motorcycle Consumer News

To: MCN mcn.fred@genie.geis.com
Copy: Derek Catt r10dcc1@corn.cso.niu.edu
Subj: Honorary STOC number - 006

Just read about your Genie address & Internet address in the May
issue of MCN.

Thanks for the survey on the Honda ST-1100, now the world knows
what we owners of ST's already knew.

As you are probably aware, there are two newsgroups (actually 3)
on the net that are devoted to motorcycles. Although mostly
unmoderated and "user beware", there are from time to time
actually good trip reports and bikers sharing information on
accessories, repairs, etc.

rec.motorcycles tx.motorcycles rec.motorcycles.harley

Derek and I have started a STOC (ST Owners Club) and are issuing
numbers to mostly anyone that requests one (should be a ST owner).
Membership in the club doesn't provide any benefit other than
maybe getting the ST Mini-FAQ (Frequently asked question) when
published. There is a world of information in the FAQ concerning
tried and tested modifications to the ST that we owners have made
(including replacing steering head bearings with Honda tapered
bearing to get rid of head shake, etc

There are no dues or other requirements, just for fun mostly,
usually Internet users too.

Because of your excellent survey of the ST-1100 last month, I
believe you should be given an honorary STOC # (006).

Anyway, keep up the good work and don't let anyone tell you that
your format is wrong. We love it........

Thanks again,

_____/ __ __/ ____/ ____/ Charlie Woods
/ / / / / chaswoods@aol.com
____ / 0 / 0 / / 2 / '92 ST1100
/ / / / / AMA, GWRRA, TMRA, HRCA
______/ _/ _____ ____/ _________o>o_____________

{If you are trying to contact Charlie (for whatever reason), please
note his new e-mail address above.}

><><><><><><><><><><>Throttle Locks

From: Derek C Catt <r10dcc1>
Subject: STs and Throttle locks
SOS and Vista Cruise both make a throttle lock that is almost
identical. Its the more "traditional" one. For the ST get the
"dual throttle cable" model that fits Hondas. The hand grip does
not need to be removed for installation. I found after riding my
father's (and Jim agrees!) that this lock is rotated too far down.
Hard to manipulate. I've got the N.E.P. brand throttle lock. Its
the square design. Again, the grip doesn't need to be removed for
installation. The lock sits at the top of the unit rather than the
bottom. Again, get the version for "dual throttle cables." (I
also think the NEP lock looks better, but thats purely
subjective.)

><><><><><><><><><><><Suspension Improvements!!
I got my bike back finally!! The new Progressive Springs for the
forks cost ~$45 for the set. Installation was $35 including new
oil. I stuck with the stock oil weight -- 10. I've talked to one
ST owner that went to a lower weight oil (8). So far I've got no
complaints. It is more plush in straight line riding. All of a
sudden 90mph feels like 65mph used to. On the brakes and in the
corners it is STIFF! Not hard, stiff. Under HEAVY braking, the
front end still works. Before I was all bottomed-out under
braking. Definite improvement. I'd like the opportunity to ride a
new (<5k miles) ST right now for comparison.
I'll go out on a limb and try a recommendation: if you have a
pre-94 ST, change your fork oil @ 20k-25k miles. Sometime over
40k miles change the oil AND the fork springs. (Mine were at 51k
miles) I think the sporty riders will appreciate the firmness (NO
DIVE NO DIVE NO DIVE!! Okay, just significantly reduced dive, it
does have some dive) and the touring riders will appreciate the
plushness the progressive rate springs provide.

Progressive warns of noisy forks during break-in of the new
springs. I've noticed none.

Radial tires help the handling. Tapered steering bearings help
the handling. New (better) springs help the handling. And a new
shock is in the mail. I'm set. Feels like a whole new ST (@ 51k
miles) for $350 (when the shock arrives [self installed], and the
bearings were self installed) and a set of tires (if you aren't
running radials). {I've read the magazine quotes like "well
set-up forks" and wondered what they could be talking about. Now
I have a clue!!}

><><><><><><><><><>
From: gac@intgp1.att.com (George A Catt +1 708 979 9424)
Date: 26 APR 94 21:28:00 GMT
Subject: STbearings

ROLLER BEARINGS IN YOUR HEAD
(Hap Jones part number: SSH 903 R same as Honda Hawk GT)

So, who would have thought we would get this done so fast!
Derek and I decided to install the tapered roller bearings in
our STs, he because of high miles and apparent wear in the
stock set up; me because I wanted to avoid the problems he
was having. So we did. On Saturday last (4-23) we tackled
his front end with a vengeance. In short order (3 hours) it
was all buttoned up and ready to test ride. Derek could not
believe the improvement! NO head shake, NO wobble.

While he was finishing up, I decide to install the new
PRO-GRIP hand grips I had purchased the day before. Since
these grips are closed end, I didn't bother to re-install the
handle bar end weights. When Derek was ready for his test, I
decided to go along. Now, guess who had a significant
oscillation. I WAS going to wait until after our Texas trip
this week (4-28) before installing the roller bearings. But
I decided this was too good an opportunity to miss. So last
night I started on mine. Working mostly alone, I expected to
get it apart, and finish the installation this evening.
Things went so well that the job was completely finished by
11:30, with dinner, phone calls, test ride, tools, bath all
done. Five hours from first wrench to last faucet.

Only two steps required help. They are noted below.

Remove the top cover (for scratch protection only. If you're
careful, you can leave it on.
Remove vanity cover from the bars (only the center need be
removed) - 3 screws.
Remove handle bar clamps - 4 bolts.
Remove triple clamp bolts (2) and top nut (1).
Reinstall handle bars to lever off top triple clamp.
Leave handle bar-triple clamp dangling. (If you separate
them, it may be easier to work in this limited space. I
didn't bother.)
Remove front brake calipers (don't leave dangling!) - 2 bolts
each
Remove speedometer cable - 1 screw
Loosen right fork axle pinch bolts (2)
Remove axle bolt from right end of axle (1)
Loosen left fork axle pinch bolts (2)
Place appropriate jack under crankcase and elevate front end.
(I used a hydraulic floor jack.)
Remove the front axle.
Remove the front wheel. (Don't drop the speedometer drive!)
Remove bolts holding front brake hoses to the forks (2)
Remove bolt holding front brake hoses to lower triple clamp (1)
Loosen hose clamp on right upper fork leg - 1 screw
Loosen clamp bolts on bottom triple clamp (4)
Remove forks complete with front fender
Bend down the tabs on the steering stem locking washer.
Remove steering stem lock nut and steering stem nut with
Honda socket (2) (Don't allow steering stem to fall out the
bottom!)
Remove upper dust cover, upper inner race, and both
bearings.
Remove lower inner race from steering stem with hammer and
chisel or drift.

Remove outer races from steering head with hammer and drift.
(Wear safety glasses during all the pounding parts! We broke
one race while removing and sent shrapnel flying!) (Place a
screwdriver or pry bar under the lip of the race and hit it!
This is much easier than trying to punch out the race
directly.) (Removing the outer races took a second pair of
hands. Thank you, Debbie.)

Install new inner race on steering stem. (Don't forget the
dust cover!) (I made a "press" from a piece of one inch
water pipe and a pipe coupler. File down the threads on the
'operating' end of the coupler so it will fit over the fat
part of the steering stem. Grind that end flat, then grind a
taper around the outside edge so it only contacts the inner
race and not the bearing. For a one-time use tool, it cost
about $5. Derek took his to the shop and they pressed it on
for free.)

Press the outer races into the steering head using a suitable
press. (I made one from a piece of 1/2" threaded rod and
some heavy duty washers. You may need to grind the edge of
the washers so they will fit inside the head tube. Don't
make them too small or you will score the new race.) (Make
sure the new races are fully seated!)

Pack the new bearings with heavy duty bearing grease. (I
used Phil Wood waterproof bearing grease. It's made for
bicycles and seems just right for this application.)

Reinstall all parts in reverse order. (Installing the
steering stem took a second pair of hands. Thank you,
Debbie.) (The only critical part here is to not over tighten
the steering stem nut. The shop manual says to torque to 20
ft lbs. Torque everything else according to the shop manual,
or educated wrist. It's your bike.)

RESULTS: YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE! NO head shake! NO wobble!
Even without end weights, the bike is absolutely stable at
all speeds.

CONCLUSION: DO IT! I purchased our bearing sets from MARE'S
CYCLE in Downers Grove, IL for $49.95 each. Everything fit
as it should.

Listen up, Honda! The ST1100 has to be one of the best
designed motorcycles ever. BUT it could be better. And
tapered roller bearings in the steering head would be a good
place to start. In fact, ALL the big road burners should
have them. Pass the cost on to the consumer. It would have
saved me some work.

{Talked with a Honda guru -- seems the Honda CBX had tapered
bearings in the steering head. Nothing right now seems to have
tapered bearings. HELLO! HONDA???}