Date: Tue, 24 May 1994 12:25:55 -0500
From: Derek C Catt <r10dcc1@corn.cso.niu.edu>
Subject: STuff #7 -- Its a long one!

STuff #7

STuck in Central Illinois

Rather than be bored while I wait around Central Illinois, I've
logged on again and gotten STuff #7 ready.

In case you're wondering, I'm STuck here waiting for a bolt for
the ST to show up. It should arrive this afternoon or tomorrow
morning. Before I left for my travels I ordered a new Honda shock
(actually a Showa, did everyone know that??) mail order. It was supposed
to arrive FOUR days before I was to leave. Thats cool -- gave me a few
days buffer time so it could be late. It was. It finaly showed the
afternoon before I was to leave. I was able to replace the shock in
about 30 minutes. Very simple. Remove the seat, the right
access cover, right saddle bag (not necesarily in that order <grin>),
top bolt holding the shock, bottom bolt holding the shock (putting something
under the rear tire or shaft to prevent it from dropping is helpful), pull
the top of the shock lose (careful! I seriuosly pinched my hand) and
then install the new shock. The manual calls for greasing the bottom bolt.
Don't over tighten the bottom bolt -- it's a low torque item. Thats
the bolt I happen to be waiting for. Its held for almost 2k miles without
threads (thank God for locktight!) and still holds. Anyway, thats the
bolt I'm waiting for.

By the way, if you remove the shaft "pumpkin" at the rear wheel, its
easier to reach some of the four nuts if you release it from the shock
and let the swing arm lower. Gets the nuts away from the muffler. If
you happen to ever break the shock bolt threads off, remove the pumpkin,
and start drilling a hole into the bolt threads from rear. Mine started
to back itself out because of this. With enough of a hole I was able to
put a screwdriver in it and back it the rest of the way out. Of course,
you could just heed my warning about it being a low-torque bolt and not
have any of these problems. . . . .

While at the HSTA rally in Wisconsin, Dave Crocket (see below) pointed
out a problem he's seen on STs. Grab your mufflers and give them a wiggle.
Any play? Any noise? Tighten up the bolts if you find some. There are
easily accesible nuts where the mufflers meet the expansion chamber --
Dave seems to have found these lose on some STs.

Suspension info:
As I said in the special edition yesterday (and Dave talks about below)
the Showa (stock) shock on the ST doesn't seem up to REALLY HEAVY use.
I happen to be happy with it for solo riding (even loaded) but two-up
seems to max it out. If someone replaces it better than stock, or has the
stock one re-built, let me know about it!! I'll be making the phone calls
myself when my travels are finished. (Lets see, Works performance should
install custom progresive wound springs and re-valve the rebound.
Yeah, that should do the trick. . . . .)

I got the Progressive Springs in the front before I left and I'm thrilled.
Ralph (in Wash state) also replaced his. He's running 5w fork oil
and is happy with everything (assuming his tappered bearings work
better after re-torquing them). I've got the "stock" 10w fork oil
and am not so happy. The front end seems harsh at lower speeds.
It feels great >50mph, but around town it doesn't seem to travel fast
enough to smooth out isolated bumps. I'll be switching down a weight or
two when I get the chance (5w, 6w, 8w??? Hmmmm. Decisions, decisions. . .).

ST Cornering:
I'm sceptical of the following. Both accounts are NOT first hand.

A Texas HSTA member was telling me about Rock Rhodes' (HSTA member) newest
drag location on his ST -- the plastic fairing protectors.
I've ridden with the guy -- he can RIDE. He does drag things. He's
had the same problem of dragging PARTS when using a 170/60 size tire.
(He said he got his clearance back with the 160/70.)
But his fairing protectors?? I'll be sure to talk to him about it
when next I bump into him (he's in Texas -- I'm not).

After the Wisconsin rally last weekend, I bumped into a couple on an
older CBR1000 in Wisconsin. Being the nice guy I am, I gave them
the rally route sheet (GREAT ROADS!). He talked of a riding buddy of
his on an ST1100 who has dragged his fairing protectors.

I don't know what to make of these two accounts. You decide. When I talk
to Rock IN PERSON, I'll find out the scoop and fill you all in.

If you are going to do any traveling, I recommend you print up a copy of
the FAQ (in fact, you might want to beef it up -- its a little out of
date now!) and take it with you. Any ST rider you bump into will be thrilled
to learn of some of the things. I've been able to drop off one copy to
an isolated ST rider in Memphis, and have told two others about waterproofing
the saddle bags. And one of the guys had been looking for a luggage rack,
and his local Honda shop said he'd have to import a $250 tank bag from
Germany if he wanted one for his ST (he thought my Nelson Rigs did just
fine!), etc, etc. When I done traveling in June I will be sitting down
for a few afternoons and updating the FAQ -- just so you all don't think
I'm slacking off or anything.

If anyone is going to be at the HSTA S. Carolina Rally and Party this weekend,
look me up. I'll be there. If anyone is bored on Wednesday, June 2nd
you can go to Road Atlanta and watch me take the ST around the track all
day.

Final comment from me -- I did get another semester of straight A's (no
English classes) for the Spring of '94. Congratulatory donations can be
sent to. . . . .

Derek
"Second Generation 'Cyclists -- we're born to ride!" (tm)

<WARNING: Replying to this message will generate an auto-reply>

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From: "Tom Cardinali" <tcardinali@VNET.IBM.COM>

Thanks for the STuff. From one of your messages which Jim Alexander
posted on CIS I read that you're looking for a circuit design for a
power convertor for a Walkman. Here are some instructions for a 3VDC
circuit...

In a nutshell, use a 7805 voltage regulator from Radio Shack (it takes
10-40VDC as an input and provides a regulated 5VDC as the output), attach
three silicon diodes in series on the output leg of the regulator (each
result in about 0.7VDC voltage drop). This gets your voltage down close
to 3VDC (needed for my Sports Walkman). Starting with the 5VDC nominal
output of the 7805 add as many diodes as necessary to bring the voltage
to your desired value. If the Walkman requires 6VDC then use the
7805 without any diodes, just add the capacitors as described if noise is
a problem. I used such a setup for years with a 6VDC Walkman with no
problems whatsoever.

Since these diodes need some current flow to get started, attach about
a 10k-ohm carbon resistor across the output leg of the diodes to ground.
This keeps current flowing without the walkman drawing power, but when
in use the resistor is negligible. Then bridge the input and output
legs with some small (0.1pf) ceramic capacitors for noise reduction
and you're done.

Run the inputs of the circuit to the 12VDC system of the bike and the
output to a suitable coaxial power plug for the Walkman. Stuff the works
in a Kodak film can with a small piece of foam for vibration control and
hide it somewhere in the bodywork.

The *right* way to do this would be to design a small circuitboard to mount
the components. I might just do this at some point. But in the rush to get
ready for my x-country trip I just bent leads from each of the components to
fit to one another and soldered them together directly.

I used mine for the duration of a 10,400 mile cross country trip with zero
trouble...

Credit for designing the circuit goes to Chris Schnorr. A good friend and
another ST1100 owner in Raleigh, NC.

TomC / STRider

Attached below is a note from Chris giving me some details...
=========================================================================
Date: 17 August 93, 08:55:10 EDT
From: Chris Schnorr
To: TCARDINA at BTVMANVM

ok - the diode number is 276-1101. they are 50v 1a diodes. i can't
find my own schematic, but the caps will look like 1/4 x 1/4 inch
green chicklets (.1's). the 5v regulator is straight forward. 3
legs on one end, tab on the other (which is a ground attached
internally to the middle leg).

just solder the 3 diodes in series off the end of the output
leg. solder a 10k resistor from the end of the 3 diodes to
the middle leg. also solder a wire off the end of the 3 diodes
for power input to your radio. caps go from input to ground and
output to ground. have fun.

><><><><><><><><><><><<><><>
(Tappered bearing kits thru JC Whitney)

From: gac@intgp1.att.com (George A Catt +1 708 979 9424)
Date: 9 May 94 13:40:00 GMT

The Whitney catalog lists the 82-83 CB750SC and the 86-87 VFR750.
Order per that model and you'll get the right tappered bearing set.
$44.50, part #55XX4030X.

####################################
NEWS FLASH ----------- HOT TIPS
####################################

DON'T replace the upper bearing!!!!! Brain storming with Howard Dye (here at
work) reveals that the upper bearing doesn't carry any load, anyway! All it
does is keep the steering stem centered. They only wear out because people
over torque them trying to keep things under control. Comments?

{There was an email discussion on this topic that most of you didn't
get to participate in. All of those in the discussion had replaced the
entire bearing set. Most of us were skeptical of only replacing the
lower bearings. I must admit, replacing just the lower bearings would
probably improve things significantly (so will better tires!), but, if
you go thru all the trouble, just do it all! Derek}
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From: merlin!wolf@probe.att.com (Thomas Wolf)

>Derek wrote. . . . .
> Subject: STuff #6 adendum
>
> (Did I spell that right?)

Nope - it's "addendum" :-)

WINDSHIELDS:

I bought both the Clearview and the Rifle. Neither one seemed to do the
trick for me: the Clearview still let too much air under my helmet (I'm
not sure what you meant by the Clearview's height being customizable - mine
wasn't...maybe you mean that you can tell Clearview what height you want?);

{Yes -- you can order the height you want}

the Rifle, although it didn't let much air under my helmet, caused some
major wind-noise - prompting me to wear ear-plugs for the first time.
I sold the Clearview and, with the proceeds, bought SAENGs edging which
I just put on my Rifle this weekend. So far it seems pretty amazing. The
noise level is definitely down and, I think, so is the amount of air getting
under my helmet. I'm about to go on a cross-country trip: if the edging
stays on the shield (I'm a little skeptical, since the only thing that seems
to be keeping it on the shield are metal clips built into the edging), I
highly recommend it.

Tom

{My father and I have both been running SAENG's Stealth edging on our
Rifle windshields and love it. I don't know how it works, but it does
reduce the wind noise. In 70k miles mine never blew off. Two weeks
ago the very top part came un-done at [indicated] 130mph. Sinched
things back up and its staying fine. Derek}

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Date: Fri, 13 May 1994 12:16:58 -0500
From: crockett@zeus.cso.uiuc.edu

I have been making a number of judgements on the ST1100 vs.
an '86 Concours. I think the Concours has gotten a bad rap in the
latest write ups, with the exception of too much vibration....but then
the ST1100 has too much vibration too. Every motorcycle I have ever
ridden has too much vibration. (I wonder how those Wankel powered Norton's
feel?) The biggest negative that I have found on the ST1100 is the rear
suspension. The longer travel on the Kawasaki made for much better ride
on the sorry country roads I most often travel. I will extend this discussion
later, after I have a reasonable number of miles under my butt (less than 2K
at this point on the Honda).

Thanks,

Dave Crockett

{So -- what are the comments?? In Wisconsin you talked about the
Concours suspension having some benefits on the ST. What about everything
else?? <GRIN> Derek}

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>From BOSS302@RALVM29.VNET.IBM.COM Tue May 24 09:13:25 1994

I have a black '91 with only 12.5k on it. right now it has a 20 inch
Rifle windshield (i still cannot believe some people actually cut the
stock screen shorter!), 2 inch bar risers (provided through Tom), Johar
superbike grips, throttle lock, cig lighter plug in right pocket, radar
detector mount and wiring, Cobra CB mounted in bike (i got it all fixed
and debugged AGAIN Tom...) with a push-to-talk button that can be
activiated with my left thumb (i have a mic and speakers in my helmet).
i also have a beautiful back rack (thanks again Tom!), Honda backrest,
and active rear running lights (non-pulsing but on all the time and
taillights get brighter when braking). i am running the Pirelli Match
tires and i love them. even after 5.5k on them i can still drag knee.
i also have a Targe tank cover (great deal at $50).

i'll just quickly run through some minor complaints i have, but overall
it's a great bike and i love it. the only problem i had that Honda had
to fix was a (rare) factory defect. the u-joint yoke had an unwanted
groove machined in it right where it rode on the seal and leaked all over
the place. Honda fixed it no problem. while the bike was in the shop they
also replaced the left pocket with a '92 pocket with the better material.
no charge. i also had a battery go dead but i really think it was because
the bike sat all winter and i didn't realize there was a special way to
charge those ST batteries (high amperage (50-70) charge for first half hour
or so to "wake it up", then normal charge until full). the things i don't
like are the windshield (way too short and i'm only 5'9'') and a very clunky
gearbox with missed shifts. those are probably my 2 biggest complaints.
i have not experienced any horrible head shake like i hear about, but i
do think it's terrible that roller bearings weren't used in such a critical
area as the steering head.

i guess i also don't understand all the "confusion" about tank bags. the
damn "tank" is so big you can fit any tank bag made on it. i have an old
OSI that works fine (3 point clip mounts). gotta run - happy riding

chris

{Hmmm. Pirelli tires? The rear is in the correct size? Are they
radials? How about "How to mount a cobra CB on the ST"?
Those of you that noticed his riser comments, see below!
I've heard of people with the first STs breaking their left fairing pocket
cover in cold weather. Makes me wonder if mine was replaced by/for
the first owner -- I've had no trouble. Derek}

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>From crockett@zeus.cso.uiuc.edu Tue May 24 10:00:44 1994

Derek,

just a note on some deals at the Honda shop in Bloomington, IL.
They show an ST1100P for $7997. That's less than I paid for a new '92
just 3 months ago. The P is a '93 Red one. Boy am I irritated! The '93
was what I was looking for in March, and I was told they were all gone!
They also have a '94 Interstate for $8888. Must be some kind of sale.

As a comment on handling on the ST when its loaded up...mine seemed
to have a great deal of extra "float" in the front end when I had all of
my junk loaded up for the return from Spring Green. I have been running the
rear spring at #4 with the damper screw backed off about 1/2 turn. I think
that your progessive springs and a better rear shock would fix all of the
handling issues. I still miss the link-shock arrangement on the Concours.
It may have been a tad slower on rebound, but had monstrous amounts of travel
when the roads got bad. It did sometimes hop rather violently on hard
acceleration on sharp bumps(tar strips), but with that much power poing
to the ground, the drive train unloaded and reloaded in extreme ways. I
suspect that this is the same kind of problem you saw when you got on the
throttle. It seems to be inherent in shaft drive bikes.

Dave

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From: ralph@swmerc.rain.com (Ralph Merwin)
Subject: bearings and tank bags
Date: Tue, 24 May 94 8:51:37 PDT

Derek,

Sounds like you're having a good time, in spite of some problems. I'd
sure like to be riding around myself! Soon though, Thursday in fact!

I put the tapered roller bearings in the ST. They went in just fine,
but your dad's instructions didn't flow too well for me. Taking off
the upper triple clamp before removing the fork tubes was awkward.
It would be much easier to remove the front fender and rim, then the
fork tubes. Then the triple clamp is easier to work with.

No biggie though...

I noticed that the wobble I had from 30mph to 40mph was basically gone,
but now I had a slight wobble at 45mph! Still need to retorque the stem
nuts again, so maybe that'll solve the new problem.

I was talking to a Pirelli rep Saturday and she mentioned that they were
working on a tire for the ST1100. She talked about having some problems
with the ST's 'funny handling'. I mentioned the bearing replacement and
she knew about that but seemed to think there were other problems. The
new tire is supposed to be out soon though. She also said that their new
'Dragon' tire is almost ready for release in the USofA - they're in the
warehouses as I write! Real meaty looking tires...

In preparation for my trip to England I bought a Chase Harper 750 tank bag.
It fits just fine, but I'm not overly impressed with the size (it's small!)
and it seems kind of wobbly when fully extended. I do like my old Eclipse
bag but it has the nastly little problem of being to fat at the front and
hitting either the horn or started during full lock turns :-( At least the
CH 750 won't tell everyone I'm turning a tight left!

On an up note, I was able to stuff almost everything I'll be bringing for
three weeks, including tent and sleeping bag, into just the two saddle bags.
And that's before the obligatory repack to jettison the really unnecessary
junk!

Ralph

{For those of you that don't know, Ralph is hauling his ST to England.
A real JEALOUSY inspiring write up should be made available upon his
return.}

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>From BOSS302@RALVM29.VNET.IBM.COM Tue May 24 11:09:13 1994
Date: Tue, 24 May 94 11:41:13 EDT

bar risers. hmmm. i'm surprised Tom didn't tell you about them. BTW - in
case you haven't figured it out yet, Tom and I are good friends who used
to do a bit of riding together until I moved south. we keep in touch often.
Tom and volunteer work for the Americade Rally in Lake George, NY (coming
up in june). one of the guys who lives by Tom also volunteers with us. his
hobby is metal working. For kicks Tom asked him if he could crank us both
out a set of bar risers from some aluminum if we supplied the stock and
maybe some beer. the guy (Bill "Bing" Bingham) is a biker and needed little
direction and knocked them out one day. there are 3 pieces (per side of
course). the main piece is about 3/4 inch tall and has the half-circle
cut in it for the bottom of the handlebars to sit in. you pull the cover
off the bars and take the caps off. you pick up the bars and just place
the 2 blocks underneath and bolt the top caps back on.
you will have to run out and get slightly longer
bolts but that's no big deal. the new pieces just sit right on top of the
"old bottom". if that's not high enough (works out to maybe an inch plus),
there are 2 different size flat pieces with 2 holes drilled in them. stick
the flat pieces between the "old bottom" and the "new bottom" and you can
add another 1/4 inch, 5/16 inch, or 9/16 (stack both flats on each other).
I have the 1/4 plus the "new bottom". the only thing I had to do was go
and loosen the clutch line and brake line mounts so I could gain some slack
because the taller bars were making the lines get a little tight. after
buying some bolts, the whole thing took about 10 minutes. the top cover
doesn't fit (as many have told you) and I rotated the controls because they
were at too steep an angle to reach with the higher bars. anyway - i love it.
my wrists were aching every now and then (old age) and this has helped keep
some pressure off and they feel great. I realize these were custom made, but
any competant machinist could knock them out in a very short time. to make
the "new bottom", get a squarish piece of aluminum about an inch or so thick,
drill a hole in it the size of the bar diameter, and then cut it in half across the diameter of the hole (will make both "new
bottoms"). the other spacers are just flat rectangular pieces with 2 holes
drilled in them.

gotta run. later - chris

{Simple. So simple. Solutions like this might make Heli's risers
less worthwhile. (when they become available)}

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To: r10dcc1@corn.cso.niu.edu
Date: Wed, 04 May 94 17:36:22 EDT
Subject: Motorcycle Consumer News replies. . . .

MCN replied..... it follows.
*****
Subj: MCN Reply
Date: 94-05-04 16:11:15 EDT
From: mcn.fred@genie.geis.com

Thanks for both the kind words and the info.

Yes, I would love to have an "honorary" STOC membership. As a matter of fact
-- I'd be "honored."

Love the 006 number too -- I'll tell everyone I was just a cut under 007.

Don't own an ST right now -- but I'm looking. Love that bike.

Look forward to seeing the FAQ sheet.

Ride Safe!
Fred.
*******